Big Waves: Surfing, Adrenaline and Danger on the High Seas

Abstract

A great day of surfing is made possible by good waves. The bigger and more perfect they are, the more likely they are to bring extreme satisfaction to those present in the sea. However, when they become too large, due to the arrival of large swells, they can lead to accidents and setbacks for unprepared surfers who cross their path. Thus, descending a “ramp” of moving water, approximately 20 meters high, on a surfboard can be a moment of pure adrenaline and happiness, but also, if you are unable to stay upright, can cause great inconvenience to unsuspecting surfers.